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Exploring Albania: Tirana, Vlorë and Llogara National Park


Be ready to have your mind blown by Albania because I certainly did.

Albania sits on Europe’s southeastern Balkan peninsula, bordered by the Adriatic and Ionian seas, with Montenegro and Croatia to the north and Greece just to the south. Corfu is a mere 30-minute boat ride from Albania’s southern beaches, giving you a sense of just how warm and inviting the water and climate are here.

Albania is the road trip destination for someone who craves the road less travelled. Who wants to uncover mountain passes, crumbling castles, ancient archaeological sites, and a coastline that rivals its glitzier Mediterranean neighbours at a fraction of the crowds (and the price).

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This Albania travel guide is Part 1 of our Albania road trip series, and it covers landing in Tirana, exploring the coastal city of Vlorë, and driving into the dramatic Llogara National Park, plus everything you need to plan the first leg of your own Albanian adventure.

Getting to Albania

From London, I took a 6.10am flight from London Luton direct to Tirana, the capital of Albania.

For those unaware, London Luton is a 1-hour taxi ride from London (40 miles from my flat in the south west), and for a 6.10am flight, this meant a 3 a.m. pick-up. It kind of wipes out your first day unless you’re talented enough to fall asleep at 8pm the night before and still get your 7 hours.

Regardless, the journey was smooth, and I slept through the flight. Happy days.

Because of the inability to coordinate flight times (10 of us joining for the week were coming from all over the globe), we stayed the first day and night in the capital, Tirana.

Albania road trip itinerary: Tirana, Vlorë and Llogara National Park

Day 1 – Arriving in Tirana

First to arrive, Ivana and I checked into Buff Hostel (they actually picked us up from the airport, so something to note if you stay here too).

Understandably, we were absolutely knackered after our early start in London, but never ones to turn down food, we insisted on a little explore and a spot of lunch before we had our afternoon siesta.

When asking TripAdvisor for the best restaurants in the area, the majority were now closed, didn’t have websites, or just didn’t seem too appealing. So, we asked our hostel owners for their recommendations instead, and we headed to Muma Bistro, a 15-minute walk away.

Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park

We got the exact nutritious energy boost we were looking for here in the form of fresh fruit and veg juices, followed by salmon and quinoa for me and a Burrata omelette for Ivana. It also looked like they had a pretty good cocktail menu!

A dreamy hotspot worth noting!

Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park

Top tip: When we went they didn’t yet accept card payment here, so take cash out before you come just in case. They also didn’t have any non dairy milk alternatives for coffee.

My first impressions of Albania here in Tirana were so different to anywhere I’ve ever been.

They had the non-uniformed, free-for-all road strategies that you find in Bali, streets lined with second-hand shoe shops and fruit markets like those in Asia, but the architecture and eateries like those in Europe. It took me a while to process it, but I loved it.

Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park

The locals were soft, friendly and seriously inquisitive. It’s quite clear tourism isn’t prominent here, but that’s not to say it isn’t welcomed. I felt safe.

Hold up. I completely forgot to mention how cheap it is here. Wow wow.

Our lunch worked out at 1000 Albanian lek (£6.95) followed by a yummy ice cream cone from a beautiful gelateria for just £0.48.

Discovering that my roaming SIM (from back home in the UK) didn’t cover Albania, I also purchased a SIM card for the week with 6GB of data for 1100 Albanian lek (£7.65).

Bargain.

For dinner, we took another recommendation from Matilda and Stavri (the lovely Albanian couple who own Buff Hostel) and headed to their favourite seafood restaurant: Markata E Peshkut.

You could tell by the wine glasses and platters of fish on the tables of the customers who had already sat down that this was a good call. The food was insane.

Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park

We stepped inside to select the fish we wanted to dine on, sat back in our outdoor seats and people-watched over the thriving square that this restaurant sits on the corner of. Albanian elders in suits on bikes, friends with beers watching the World Cup and young children playing.

Never a dull moment.

No sooner had we enjoyed starters of Calamari, octopus, sardines, and salad than a sharing platter arrived, accompanied by seafood risotto, salad, and a choice of beer, red wine, or white wine.

We split the bill and it came to just £18 each. Just look at the platter. Enough said.

I slept with a satisfied tummy and a soul very excited to uncover more of this country…

The best things to do in Albania...​
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park

Day 2 – Driving through Vlorë and Llogara National Park

Extremely happy with a sleep of more than 3 hours, we woke in our hostel to a fresh breakfast of cheese, tomatoes, boiled eggs, and bread before setting off on our four-hour journey toward the coastline.

Top tip: Prepare for traffic leaving town – take snacks! (Google Maps will probably say it’s quicker than it is).

Top tip: Stop off for lunch in Vlorë: we had some pasta overlooking the ocean at Riviera Blu.

Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park

Now that we had passed through Vlorë, it was time for one of the most beautiful drives I’ve ever done. In Europe, anyway.

Welcome to Llogara National Park.

Windows down, music up, hair down…

Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
After passing through Vlöre it's time for for one of the most beautiful drives I've ever done. In Europe anyway.
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
Exploring Albania: Landing in Tirana, Vlöre and Llogara National Park
The best things to do in Albania...​

Isn’t it just magical?!

Next, we get to the coast in Dhërmi, ready to hop into the International festival that is putting Albania on the map… Kala Festival. 

Check out my post here.

Check out my top tips for travelling in Albania here. See the video of my road trip here.

Have you been to Albania?

What were your favourite spots? I’d love to know!

Love as always + happy adventuring,

Mollie.

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